Ohio (#3) - A Hocking Hills Christmas

I suppose a Wolverine should never admit to liking anything about the state of Ohio, but I'm going to go out on a limb here and confess to you...it is a great place to visit, especially Hocking Hills southeast of Columbus.

When I was growning up in southeast Michigan we visited several times each year and after Phil and I married the tradition continued.

Thanksgiving 2004 our family talked about going away for Christmas in lieu of traditional presents. We didn't know where, we didn't have gobs of money and we didn't want to fight the crowds (or possible delays) a trip to an airport might garner. After a little investigation, I came up with a couple of choices-one each in Ohio and Michigan. We had been to Hocking Hills the summer before and noted the high number of cabins in the area. The loft pool table and back porch hot tub clinched our choice as our destination the week between Christmas and New Year.

We drove to the cabin during what was possibly that winters worse ice storm for southeastern Ohio. Fortunately for us Ohioans were smart and laid low making it clear sailing for us in the trusty family minivan. The ice on the tree limbs glimmering in the sunlight was incredibly beautiful. It seemed as if we had journeyed into a fairytale.

The cabin was no disappointment. The living room and loft area were recycled from an early 1800s log cabin that had been moved and reassembled at this spot. A small Christmas tree, foosball table, and oversize TV for our video games greeted us in the living room and up in the loft was a small pool table. The boys squealed with delight! To the right and back of the log cabin were modern additions, one with the kitchen and keeping room complete with fireplace and wood and the other off the back, housed our two bedrooms with modern bath and laundry areas. The back door led to porches that hung slightly into a ravine and to one side was a hot tub that comfortably fit us all. This was nice.

It was real easy to settle in here. We had prepared several dinners back at home and froze. We always try to make them ahead for vacations such as this so we have meals made from scratch, and quick and easy prep after a day of fun. The boys hooked up the video games and Phil built a fire with the fruitwood they supplied. Phil slipped into the rocker next to the fire...life is good folks.

We got up early the next day so we could explore this icy wonderland the storm had left behind. During our five day stay we stuck to a loop and stopped for hikes at Cedar Falls, Ash Cave and Rockbridge. Few other people were hiking and we savored each adventure. Standing water froze in place and became iridescent and flowing water became drapes of icicles. At Rockbridge we were joined by a beagle who came out of nowhere and hiked down to the natural bridge and back with us. We scampered under the bridge where water fell into the small creek below during warmer weather, but today it was an ice cascade. Austin went on a great ice spear hunt, gathering more and more, each one bigger than the last. Our beagle mascot never left our side until we were close to the van and then he just disappeared just as he had when he joined us. the best part was after a full day of hiking we came back to the cabin and jumped in the hot tub while our dinner was warming up.

This was one of those great memorable family trips, full of fun and laughter and that wonderful feeling of closeness. I believe it may have been the most relaxed Christmas holiday I have ever experienced and that was the best present I could have ever been bestowed. As we pulled through the gate and left our little cabin in the icy wonderland, we talked about how nice it would be to come again next year and do it all over again. That was not meant to be though, the next Christmas would find our family exploring Austin, Texas together for the first time...our new home. Funny where life can take you.

Sweet Home Alabama (#45)

In June of 2007, our family was living in the twilight zone. Phil and Austin were living in the house in Michigan, while Jacob and I were living in our newly purchased house in Texas. We drove to Michigan as soon as Jacob got out of school for the summer and I "traded" vehicles with Phil so I could load up the van and head back to Texas. At this time I had been to 44 states and Washington DC and was missing three southern states. I took the opportunity and headed straight south from Michigan, picking up the Natchez Trace Parkway in Nashville and heading southwest toward Louisiana. When I got to Alabama, I turned east and headed for I-65 where I turned south toward my main destination...Birmingham.

I had read that Alabama had several covered bridges and decided to explore the east side of I-65 above Birmingham and visit a few. Most were in very haphazard shape, but one I found thoroughly intriguing near Oneonta. The Horton Mill Covered bridge is a town lattice truss bridge and considered the highest covered bridge above a US waterway towering 70 feet above the small river. Parking was very limited, so I parked out on the main road and scurried down to the bottom to see just how high this bridge really was. As I looked up from the river, I was glad I had already ventured across the bridge and back, because there was no way I was going back over it now...it looked like a covered bridge perched on toothpicks!

On my way into Birmingham I discovered one of the prettiest barns I have ever seen up on a hillside. I stopped to take pictures and the owner came over and struck up a conversation with me and offered to let me go into the barn to see the inside. He told me that the barn and property had been in his family for three generations and that they often had people from all over the US stopping to take pictures...I wasn't a bit surprised.

It had started raining by the time I found the Sloss Furnaces National Historic Landmark in Birmingham. I watched the short movie about the history of the pig smelting facility and ventured outside and took the self guided tour. It started to pour and I found myself playing hide and seek with the raindrops navigating through the various stages of pig iron smelting.


After my enjoyable tour at Sloss Furnaces, I headed to the highest point in the city to visit Vulcan. Built in 1904 as a tribute to Birmingham's iron roots, Vulcan is considered the worlds largest cast iron statue and underwent a complete multimillion dollar renovation in 1999. The park surrounding the colossal statue had a nice museum and it was a great place to picnic. The statue is open late and I thought an evening visit to the top of the 56 foot statue for a panoramic view of the city would have been another great option.

My day was fleeting fast, but I had just
enough time to head down I-59 towards Tuscaloosa for a stop at the Tannehill State Historic Park with more than forty-five historic buildings from its heyday as a bustling ironworks town. The staggering number of sites and activities included a museum, gristmill, farm, candy store and a small railroad as well as camping and cabin rentals. A great place to explore.

Gateway to the West-Nebraska (#27)

I used to consider Nebraska a mere pass through state...A necessary evil to labor across to get to the good states, on either side. Then again I never took the time to stop here before. This time I would stop, my destinations - Carhenge, Scotts Bluff National Monument and camping at Lake Minatare SNA-Home of Nebraska's only lighthouse...my thought was that anyplace with a lighthouse couldn't be all that bad. Nebraska was so much more than I originally expected and I hope to return someday and see more of this All-American state.

My first surprise was prompted by a highway sign directing tourists to an original Pony Express Station. I ventured off I-80 at Gothenburg and followed the signs. While the Station was indeed the real deal, it had been moved from the original Pony Express Route about eight miles south of the highway. No matter, the road to the station was lined with historic homes in spring flower bloom and just off the highway was another surprise...a sod house museum. It was a quick visit but it was time to get back on the road and head to my camping destination - Lake Minatare just outside of Scottsbluff. I got hopelessly lost trying to find this lovely camping area, my GPS unit failed me and my husband Phil's attempts to direct me via cell and the Internet brought him nothing but borderline hysteria from me. What Phil had realized and I could not wrap my brain around was that there were a couple of identical intersections within Scottsbluff. Near dusk I finally found the campground with just enough time to climb to the top of the lighthouse and find a spot to bed down for the night. Ordeal over.

The GPS was back to its old
self in the morning and we arrived at Scotts Bluff National Monument just as the park road and museum were opening. After a lovely conversation with the NPS staff, I headed to the top of the bluff on Summit Road, the oldest concrete road in Nebraska they informed me. I was alone at the top, except for mule deer and a rabbit and the wind howled like a locomotive. I walked to both north and south overlooks and was astounded by the starkness the pioneers must have encountered a century and a half ago. Way off in the distance I could see Chimney Rock, a landmark pioneers used to mark their halfway point to Oregon.

I traveled back to the museum and took the path to walk part of the Oregon Trail. While researching our genealogy several years ago, we discovered that Phil's family had taken the Oregon Trail and had lived in the same two vicinities as Phil - one hundred years apart of each other. Oh what a thrill to have walked where ancestors may have walked! Interesting too was that The Mormon Trail, California Trail and Pony Express all converged here at Mitchell Pass. I had used Chimney Rock as a landmark to find my way here and the whole experience sent chills through my body.

It was time to head north with one short side trip to Alliance for
a visit to Carhenge. The town of Alliance was a quaint little town with great architecture. It was obvious this community took a lot of pride in their bustling downtown. I stopped to take pictures and a woman stopped to chat with me about the buildings and gave me a brief history of them and the town, the county seat. She told me to drive down to the county courthouse and see the decorative brackets along the roofline and I passed the old movie theater with its original neon.

Carhenge was just north of town in an open field. This was an outdoor sculpture like no other I have encountered. It was hard to pull myself away from this place and several other cars stopped and walked around spellbound like me. There are several Stonehenge replicas around the US...why I do not know...why are we drawn to them? I've visited two in Texas at Odessa and Hunt. Texas also may have Carhenges' inspiration - Cadillac Ranch with ten Caddies buried nose down...someone asked me if I considered it art.
Of course I do, and I am thrilled that this time I stopped to discover that Nebraska is definately not a mere pass through state.

South Dakota (#40) - Great Faces, Great Places

This was my second visit to this beautiful state and the west side is (in my book) hands down...the best side! My first visit was in 2000 with my mom and two sons. Phil stayed home and paid for the trip while the four of us took mom back to Vegas for a visit. That trip we went via all the National Parks we could fit in on a one month trip there and back. While that trip is most cherished and memorable, I have the digital pictures from this trip and it was close to being just as awesome...only this time I was alone...and enjoying some much needed me time.

My trips primary purpose was to get to North Dakota, but I was not about to miss another opportunity to visit the Black Hills area. I entered the state from Nebraska following US385 on the west side of the state. Just before I turned to continue on to Hot Springs I saw a sign for a microbrewery in Rapid City so I decided that was my destination for the evening and I was going to stay in a motel to boot. Hot Springs on the south end of the Black Hills would have been another good choice to stop and take advantage of the springs and numerous spas up on the bluffs...next time. The nineteenth century town had an amazing amount of its original limestone architecture. I stopped momentarily before heading off to Mount Rushmore via Custer State Park.

Custer State Park is undoubtedly one of the great wildlife viewing parks I have had the pleasure of visiting. Within a few miles of entering the park I saw: bison, prairie dogs, coyote, elk, mule deer, antelope and mountain goats...oh and a few black squirrels too. I went into animal overload and took about a third of all the pictures I took the whole trip. I went past the beautiful State Game Lodge and just before leaving the park I happened upon the spot where Austin & Jacob (then 10 & 7) fed the "wild burros." it was there that a lovely women went around sticking carrots in the hands of all the kids who were stopped there. To this day that "wild burro" incident is one of the boys most favorite vacation moments...even though we broke the law!

Snaking my way up 16A to the Peter Norbeck Overlook from south to north is the better route choice. Going this direction allows a surprise first peek of presidents as you drive into one of the three tunnels along this stretch of road. Mount Rushmore is perfectly framed within the tunnel and I wondered just how they figured it so precisely. I reached the overlook and this time had the place all to myself. I also savored the lack of traffic on this last day of April, because it allowed me to just stop virtually anywhere and take pictures, including the interesting pig tail bridges.

I reached Mount Rushmore at 5pm and they had quit taking the $10 parking fee at the gate for lack of patrons!! I walked through the Avenue of Flags and found both Michigan and Texas flags. On to the observation area, except this time I was no alone. It appeared I was amongst several Amish people, until they asked me to take there picture, I decided they must be Mennonite. I asked them to reciprocate by taking my picture and they shared they were from Alberta, Canada and wanted their picture taken with my presidents. I told them to return in a couple years to see Obama added to the end. Not thinking I was that funny they nearly rolled on the ground with laughter. I spent way too much money in their, oh so neat, gift shop and headed for Rapid City.

Beer was calling my name! I quickly secured a motel room and headed straight to the Firehouse Brewing Company. This microbrewery is located in a beautifully refurbished two story firehouse from the early twentieth century. This was my dream at the end of grad school - renovate a historic building and start a microbrewery - I was like a pig in mud! My bartender informed me they ambitiously brewed more than 30 varieties of beer, but usually had 5 offerings available so I ordered up my usual sampler.

The building was used as a firehouse until 1991 when it underwent a stunning renovation to a restaurant. They had even hung some of the original antique fire fighting equipment from the ceiling. One of particular interest was the hand pump water tank were three people stood on each side as the pumpers worked to expel water from the tank. My Yellowfin Tuna was masterfully cooked and both Porter and Stout were super yummy. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

CHEERS!

North Dakota (#48) - A Land of Surprises

I was taking the long way back to Michigan from Texas. Instigated by one of my coworkers a month before my trip, I made the decision that come November 9, 2009 I would only be one state short of my goal to see all 50 plus DC...Alaska. Before this trip I was short three: North Dakota, Alaska and Hawaii. I have the tickets to Hawaii and will spend my 50th on the beach of the 50th. Sadly, I have the free ticket to Alaska...and the time...just not the money...maybe next year while I'm still 50!

Initially I was just going to head due north and skirt the eastern edge of the state, but a talk with another coworker from this area prompted me to change my mind. A little bit of research revealed two areas of particular interest: Theodore Roosevelt National Park and The Enchanted Highway. And so on an April evening after work I headed north from Austin to Wichita, Kansas where I would start working my way west until I reached the western edge of Nebraska where I turned due north to North Dakota.

US 85, the road heading north from the Black Hills in South Dakota to I-94 in North Dakota was long and grueling. There was little change in the terrain and little sign of life except for a few antelope now and again. I began to understand just why I had never visited this state. I wanted a McDonald's milkshake; though I rarely ever wanted one back home. I presumed my lust was a result of my inability to find a McDonald's drive thru.

Relieved to see I-94, I headed west a few short miles to discover the first of several units of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Painted Canyon was just off the highway and was a joint rest area. The scenery was incredibly beautiful, badlands with a burst of color. I entered the visitor center and was greeted by a helpful young woman who turned out to be from Dearborn, Michigan! We engaged in pleasant conversation and she recommended several hikes and viewpoints I should see at my next destination in Medora at the main South Unit part of the park.

I had the South Unit all to myself, a reoccurring theme of this wonderful trip. It was here that I was grateful that I had changed my original plans and ventured to North Dakota (#49). Upon entering the park I immediately encountered bison and a never ending sea of prairie dogs!! I stopped and hiked the Coal Vein and Wind Canyon Overlook trails and drove to the top of Buck Hill where I was treated to a 360º view of this incredible park. I had noticed groups of wild horses grazing in the valley when about the half way point in the loop, I rounded a bend to find a little white-faced colt standing near its momma intently watching me. I stopped right in the middle of the road for a few minutes and watched them for several minutes...and that little colt never stopped watching me either.

It was time to head back east on I-94 to go explore The Enchanted Highway, the brainchild of an artist trying to entice visitors to slow down and enjoy the North Dakota countryside. Located just east of Dickinson at Exit MM72 and heading south a little over 30 miles to the town of Regent. The Enchanted Highway boasts seven larger than life outdoor statues towering from a mere twenty feet to over one hundred feet tall. In 2002 creator Gary Greff captured the Guinness World Book of Records prize for the largest scrap metal sculpture for his 110 foot "Geese in Flight" right off I-94. But don't just stop there, continue south and experience them all. Featured in the Smithsonian Magazine in June 2007 just after the seventh piece of art was finished, Greff continues his dream in Regent where you can stop to buy souvenirs and start up the whirlygig. Time to head east.

Wisconsin (#6) - The Door Peninsula

I have no idea why I love lighthouses so much. Is it the protection and security they provide? Or maybe its the simple fact that they represent a big body of WATER! Whatever it is, I have had a long standing and undeniable love of lighthouses.

I have almost circumnavigated Lake Michigan, but was missing one short and prime segment along the Wisconsin side. When I moved to Texas in 2005 I wondered if I would ever have the opportunity to explore the Door Peninsula...a beautiful baby finger of land stretching out in Lake Michigan from Green Bay.

There are ten lighthouses on this tiny peninsula, a few accessible to the public for an inside peek and maybe an adventuresome climb up and down the tower. This trip had already proven to be a most awesome trip, so why was I not surprised when I reached the Cana Island Lighthouse on May 2, 2009-the first day of its open season!

I arrived at the lighthouse toward the end of their day. I had just enough time to scamper up and down the tower to see its original Fresnel lens, an unusual occurrence for a lighthouse especially one dating to 1869. The staff welcomed me to stay and enjoy the grounds as long as I wished and when one of them noticed I was alone, he followed me outside and insisted on taking the picture above.

My time was running short and I kicked myself for not planning to spend at least a couple days here exploring the other nine lighthouses I would not get to visit. I do hope there will be another opportunity to visit longer in the future.

It was time to find some dinner and work my way toward Escanaba, Michigan. I stopped at the 45th Parallel wayside to retrieve a letterbox. The park was closed so I parked outside the gate and ventured in to capture my prize and leave a hitchhiker for the next adventuresome soul.


My last stop was dinner at Shipwrecked Brew Pub in the beautiful little daffodilled village of Egg Harbor. I sat at my usual location when I visit a microbrewery...center bar...so I can engage in a conversation with someone knowledgeable about their particular business. I started with the sampler of all six beers and ordered the local catch. A delicious perch dinner seemed a fitting end to the day complete with their signature tropical cole slaw; pineapple added to the cole slaw just like my mom-in-law made...YUM! The Peninsula Porter was my favorite of the brews and I was pleasantly surprised to find they bottled, so I ordered a six-pack to take back to Texas. Shortly into dinner a young lady sat next to me and struck up a conversation about Michigan. As it turned out we were both Wolverines. Time was fleeting and it was time to go, so I bid them all a warm adieu and GO BLUE!

Kansas (#34) - Nothing Lasts Forever but the Earth and Sky

A couple of weeks ago during a discussion about my obsession to see all 50 states and DC before I turn 50, a colleague asked me if there was a state I would prefer not to return. I thought for a minute and told him Kansas. I have driven the long way across Kansas more than a time or two...it is a big long and boring state when you just drive across its width. I really didn't think there was much to see. Then last week I drove it south to north on my way to visit my 48th state. That short conversation sparked me to find a few places to stop with the help of several websites including one called 8 Wonders of Kansas. And when I visited this time...I stopped...and was pleasantly surprised.

Lindsborg, Kansas - Little Sweden
Located north of Wichita in central Kansas is the little hamlet of Lindsborg. A metal through truss bridge beacons Valkommen and hints of the history that is found on the other side.

I immediately turned left to find a nineteenth century mill and heritage village with the old train depot, and the 1904 World's Fair Swedish Pavilion. After a quick visit I headed to the downtown area to find any Swedish bakery I could find! Instead I found what appeared to be a tour for young people walking around the old town with its Swedish twist buildings. I stopped a small group who informed me they were participants of a history tour involving education college students from Bethany College and local 8th graders. I tagged along and stopped at BlacksmithCoffee a gourmet coffee bean roaster where we were treated to the buildings local history. Afterward I bought a bag of delicious espresso beans and headed northwest to my next destination.

Post Rock Scenic Byway
When researching for the trip I found a great Kansas Scenic Byway website. Included in the many byways was this short 18 mile byway located almost dead center within the 100 Amazing Miles along I-70. Post Rock Scenic Byway starts in the town of Wilson and proceeds north to Lucas. Czech emigrants who settled this area long ago left their indelible stamp on the landscape using special locally quarried limestone for their buildings and fenceposts. The byway includes six miles along Wilson Lake with lakeside camping at the US Army Corps of Engineers Sylvan and Lucas Parks on the north side of the lake.

Lucas
The byways northern terminus is Lucas; the self professed Grassroots Arts Center of Kansas. You can visit the Arts Center in the center of downtown with it outdoor courtyard. Lucas is also the home of an unusual folk art house named the Garden of Eden and (if it isn't - it should be famous) Brant's Meat Market.

Listed on the National Register, Garden of Eden folk house was "built" by a civil war veteran who added bizarre concrete scenes to the exterior of his postrock limestone home.

Do not pass up eating some of the best Czech bologna you will ever encounter at Brant's Meat Market two blocks north of the Grassroots Art Center. Mr Brant is the third generation to make this his family's ring bologna recipe that is more reminiscent of sausage than the ring bolgona I shared with my dad as a kid. He told me that they haven't changed the recipe in more than 70 years...I say "Why ruin perfection!" I ordered a 1/4 pound and a chuck of sharp smoky cheddar cheese to eat with my crackers and apple for the perfect lunch. Just before I left town, I went back and got a 1/2 pound more for another day or two. DELICIOUS!