I Left My Heart...in California (#30)

Just how many times do you think this picture has been painted or photographed? From Moran to Adams...to me and maybe lucky you, I imagine the first thought was...breath.

Last week I had the opportunity to co-present a paper at the Vernacular Architecture Forum in Fresno, California. My partner and I flew into Oakland and spent quality time in San Francisco and Yosemite National Park at the beginning and end of our trip.

We started the trip savoring the great city by the bay. We had one evening and the next morning to tour this delightful city before heading to the conference opening in Fresno. We drove into San Francisco via the beautiful Bay Bridge and made our way to The Westin St Francis on Union Square. This incredible historic hotel was built in 1904 and possessed the most luxurious bed I have ever slept in at a hotel. The two hour time difference worked in our favor because the next morning we woke at the crack of dawn to catch the sunrise over the bay from our room before scrambling out onto the city streets for a quick architectural walking tour.

We walked down to the corner of Powell and Market and watched the hand turned cable cars before they make their way back up the hill via the Powell/Mason line toward Chinatown and Fisherman's Wharf. Did you know that The World Famous San Francisco Cable Cars are the only mobile National Historic Landmark? I am not sure where all we walked but we were overwhelmed with one architectural gem after another and before long we needed to pack up and head out...but not before having lunch at Fisherman's Wharf.

The sky was so blue and the temperature was perfect! This was the second time (twice in a row!) I had experienced this incredible weather in the city famous for rain and fog...I wished we had a little more time. We did not leave without taking in a few quick tourist stops to snap a picture or two.

We drove down Lombard Street, the crookedest street in America...

and saw the eerie Alcatraz Island, home to the west coast's first lighthouse.

and some very unique homes before heading to the San Joaquin Valley for the conference in Fresno.


Onward to Fresno
Fresno was truly a pleasant surprise. We experienced two wonderful tours highlighting Adobe architecture and the cultural landscapes of fruit farming. Of particular interest on Adobe tour was our stop at the Kearney historic site to visit the incredible Châteauesque Mansion constructed of adobe and we were served a "cowboy lunch" on the lawn.

We also toured the beautiful Art Deco Fresno Airport, toured residential homes in the famous Old Fig district and wrapped it all up with a subterranean visit to the Forestiere Underground Gardens. On our own we found several great neon light displays, one of which was next to a delightful microbrewery Sequoia Brewing serving great beer battered fish and chips.

One Short Day in Yosemite
As it seems all things great come more quickly to an end, we had one glorious Sunday to spend at Yosemite National Park. Having a very limited amount of time we drove the road to Glacier Point before descending into the valley proper. The one hour drive out to the point was incredible and from Glacier Point we had great views of Half Dome and most of the major waterfalls. We went to the valley to capture more views of Yosemite Falls, on of the world's tallest and the highest waterfall in the US. Before leaving this paradise we enjoyed a fabulous lunch on the veranda of the Ahwahnee Lodge, complete with their own specially brewed beer! Oh why do such great times come to such a quick end?

Washington - The Olympic Loop (#25)

A free ticket that needed to be used by March 1, 2008...where do I go? To visit one of my closest friends who moved last summer to Bainbridge Island (across the Sound from Seattle) . I was fortunate to have spent some time in the beautiful Northwest years ago so I was not expecting sunshiny days in the middle of February. What was most important was that I was going to relax and recharge with a dear friend for an extra long President's Day weekend. In an unexpected twist I spent five glorious sunny days with my dear friend Hope, circling the Olympic Peninsula.

I arrived at SeaTac on Friday morning and was greeted with overcast sky and fine misty rain...yep this is just how I remembered it...good thing I packed my trusty raingear. I spent this first afternoon letterboxing in the amazing Fauntleroy Park and took a drive through downtown to admire the architecture before catching the ferry across Puget Sound to Bainbridge Island. But I needed a little lunch, so a stop a the Pyramid Microbrewery for a beer sampler and chili was the perfect stop for this beer snob wannabe. After purchasing a couple of souvenirs it was time to head to the Seattle Ferry Terminal and voyage across the sound to meet my friends on the other side. As the ferry pulled away from the terminal the sky west turned blue and that would be the last rain I would experience till my last day (sans the one place you cannot and did not want to avoid it!).

My first night was spent with old friends and new, partaking in some local brew. I was ever so pleasantly pleased at the Hood Canal Brewery in Kingston. This little microbrewery is tucked into an industrial complex and has a nice little tasting room. We sampled a beer or two and bought a growler to go. Then it was on to Silver City Brewery in Poulsbo for filet mignon and Scotch Ale...yum!

Leaving early the next morning, Hope and I planned to circle the peninsula clockwise starting from Bainbridge Island. We made our first stop in Ocean Shores to drive on the Pacific Ocean beach. People here scour the beach for dinner, fly kites, and just plain relax. People here also turn beach trash into art sculptures to mark paths from beach to home to.

The road on west side of the peninsula snakes back and forth alternating between the ocean shore and the woods. In the interior it becomes clear that this area is all about the bounty the woods has to offer...LUMBER. We stopped in the Stepford Community of Seabrooke for a $10 glass of wine and continued on our way.

Next stop was one of the major highlight of this wonderful trip...a hike in the Quinalt Rainforest. ..the only rain forest in the contiguous US. Here is where trees commonly tower more than 100 feet. This area is appropriately nicknamed "The Valley of the Giants" and is home to the largest evergreens in the US and the world. I felt like an enchanted ant scampering along the soft forest floor, and moss dripped from nearly every tree. The day was slipping away and we wanted to see the sun fall into the Pacific Ocean...time to find our way to our evenings stay at the Kalaloch Lodge.

The Kalaloch Lodge in the Olympic National Park was probably the greatest disappointment (and thankfully the only) of the entire trip. We were shocked to find that our $150 a night (low season price) Seacrest room had an ALMOST completely obstructed view of the ocean, a musty smell and super parse furnishings, beyond the beds there was one uncomfortable chair, and a $25 Walmart bench on the porch. The bathroom offered hard towels that didn't dry your body and dispenser soap, shampoo, and conditioner in the tiny plastic shower stall. Old moldy linoleum floors and chipped veneer finished off the sparse bathroom, and the huge dressing area attached to the bathroom didn't even offer a bench. I have stayed at several other national park lodges and was appalled at the lack of amenities for the price we paid for this room. The service in the dining room was little better. Trust me folks, plan accordingly and don't waste your money here.

First thing the next morning we made our in-room pot of coffee, used every environmentally unfriendly dry creamer packet in the joint and hightailed it to Forks. There we found a much needed tasty breakfast complete with real cream for our coffee all served by a teenage girl who could have given the dining room staff at Kalaloch a lesson or two. This was just what we needed and returned us to...glorious day two.

Just north of Forks proper we turned west towards LaPush and took the upper road to the beautiful Rialto Beach. The beach here is a great place to hike and if you are up for it try the one and a half mile hike to Hole in the Wall. The air was filled with the wonderful sound of waves crashing the beach and driftwood logs lined the beach like a gigantic game of pick up sticks.

Next stop, the Makah Indian reservation to hike the Cape Flattery Trail to the northwesternmost point of the contiguous US. The road out to the reservation hugs the edge of the water. Huge pines dot the landscape and provide a small but false sense of security. We rounded curve after curve and were delighted when one of those beautiful pines sitting next to the road served as a perch for five bald eagles...incredible. The annual entrance fee of $10 was a bargain, and I was grateful to see that the Makah Nation had not caved to putting in a casino. The trail to the Cape was truly one of those memorable strolls through the woods and up and over several boardwalks. The biggest thrill however came at the end of the trail, where on a clear day you have a great view of Cape Flattery Lighthouse out on Tatoosh Island.

We took the recommendation of turning right at Clallam Bay and traveling WA 101 instead of the coast hugging WA 112. We understood why when we arrived at the breathtaking Crescent Lake were simple clouds bumped into the mountains and eagles fished (and caught) their dinner with the sun setting into the west end of the lake...life doesn't get much better than this!

Monday morning was another super letterboxing opportunity with stops at the historic Port Gimble, the Hood Canal Floating Bridge and Ludlow Falls...every one a winner. Than on to Port Townsend for lunch, lighthouse and brew. Before leaving we had time for a little beer sampler at the Port Townsend Brewing Company and on our way back to Hope's house we stopped at the Kingston dock to see Mt. Rainier in all its glory across the Puget Sound. Tomorrow it was time to head south for ATX.

The next morning Hope and I had coffee and big hugs. Instead of taking the ferry back across the Sound to SeaTac, I opted for driving around and over the beautiful Tacoma Narrows Bridge. Two more letterboxes before I have to get the car back to the rental place. I was amazed by the beautiful architecture of the old Union station in Tacoma, now the History Museum and the Chiluly Bridge and Glass Museum nearby. I looks like I will have to return to Tacoma and Hope's house...and next time needs to be soon!

M-i-ss-i-ss-i-pp-i (#46)

US 61 - Plantations, History and The Blues HighwayAfter a wonderful visit in the Louisiana's capitol of Baton Rouge, we headed north out of town on the historic US 61 Highway. This is no ordinary road, steeped in nineteenth century history, US 61 runs 330 miles north to south, the entire length of Mississippi on the west side and takes in portions of the Great River Road.
From the state line to approximately 50 miles north the land is surprisingly rolling and does not hint of the huge plantations that lie west of the road along the mighty Mississippi River. Only the brown and white signs of the DOT suggest a detour to plantations such as Rosemont Plantation, the boyhood home of Jefferson Davis. One other DOT sign that intrigued us in this section where a couple bear crossing signs.

Just south of Natchez on the east side of the highway is a unique piece of architecture depicting a remnant of pre civil rights Americana. Mammy's Cupboard is a Aunt Jemima shaped building where patrons can eat lunch under her skirt (currently lunch only Tues-Sat).

The City of Natchez is touted as old of the oldest settlements on the Mississippi River and boasts over 500 antebellum homes; more antebellum homes per square mile than any other city. For several weeks each spring and fall Natchez Pilgrimage Tours hosts several tours, some of which are only open at these special times.

If you cannot visit during Spring or Fall Pilgrimage there are eight homes open for tours year round and several homes have been converted to bed and breakfast inns. One not-to-be missed icon of American architecture is Longwood Plantation. The largest octagonal home in the US, the 30,000 square foot "Nutt's Folly" was designed by Samuel Sloan. Built between 1860-61, construction was halted due to the Civil War and only th 10,000 square foot basement was ever finished. The home remained in the Nutt Family until 1969 and still retains most of its original furnishings.
This city is all about historic structures. One interesting place to visit north of downtown area is the Natchez City Cemetery, established in 1822. You can stroll or drive among the beautifully manicured grounds of the cemetery using a brochure/map provided in a box just outside the main office or attend one of the regularly scheduled tours. (FYI-Make sure to follow the signs that lead you to the cemetery from the downtown area. The route takes you through a neighborhood of late nineteenth century high style Victorian architecture.)

As we begrudgingly left Natchez, we veered slightly off our US 61 route to drive the twenty southernmost miles of another historic route-The Natchez Trace Parkway. This is another roadway worthy of a trip unto itself as it runs diagonally to its northern terminus in Nashville , Tennessee. This day our detour is for a short visit to Emerald Mound located at mile marker (mm) 10. Truly a historic structure, this 35 foot tall earthern structure was occupied between 1250 and 1600 A.D. and is considered to be the 2nd largest ceremonial structure of the moundbuilders in the United States.

Before returning to US 61, we left the Natchez Trace Parkway at mm 20 (Hwy 552) to visit the haunting Windsor Ruins (pictured above) 10 miles southwest of Port Gibson. Today all that remains of this once glorious plantation are most of the 45 foot tall Corinthian topped capitals. Leaving the grounds we turned left, opposite of the way we came, and rejoined US 61 in the town of Port Gibson.
Here in Port Gibson US 61 is fittingly denoted as Church Street lined with several unique and interesting religious structures, including an onion domed topped synagogue. Just before leaving town we spyed a golden hand topped steeple, symbolically pointing upward to reassure patrons of the direction their church attendance will bolster.
Onward to Vicksburg, loaded with historic landmarks and once the Vicksburg National Military Park. If you love history travel visit Vicksburg (and Natchez) soon. Riverboat casinos are beginning to line the Mississippi and I fear these towns may lose their historic context within the next decade. But for now there is still plenty of history to experience with one of several offered tours.

Upon leaving Vicksburg, US 61 quickly flattens into a vast agricultural landscape. Miles of fertile cropland only give rise to the occasional farm structure or crossroads. One such famous crossroads is located at the convergence of US 61 & 49 Highways. It was here in the town of Clarksdale where the late Robert Johnson was reputed to have "sold his soul to the devil" to obtain mastery for singing the blues. If you love blues music the Delta Blues Museum is a must. And if you want to experience one last bit of Mississippi culture before leaving the this town and wonderful state, spend your last night at the Shack Up Inn in one of the converted sharecroppers houses.