M-i-ss-i-ss-i-pp-i (#46)

US 61 - Plantations, History and The Blues HighwayAfter a wonderful visit in the Louisiana's capitol of Baton Rouge, we headed north out of town on the historic US 61 Highway. This is no ordinary road, steeped in nineteenth century history, US 61 runs 330 miles north to south, the entire length of Mississippi on the west side and takes in portions of the Great River Road.
From the state line to approximately 50 miles north the land is surprisingly rolling and does not hint of the huge plantations that lie west of the road along the mighty Mississippi River. Only the brown and white signs of the DOT suggest a detour to plantations such as Rosemont Plantation, the boyhood home of Jefferson Davis. One other DOT sign that intrigued us in this section where a couple bear crossing signs.

Just south of Natchez on the east side of the highway is a unique piece of architecture depicting a remnant of pre civil rights Americana. Mammy's Cupboard is a Aunt Jemima shaped building where patrons can eat lunch under her skirt (currently lunch only Tues-Sat).

The City of Natchez is touted as old of the oldest settlements on the Mississippi River and boasts over 500 antebellum homes; more antebellum homes per square mile than any other city. For several weeks each spring and fall Natchez Pilgrimage Tours hosts several tours, some of which are only open at these special times.

If you cannot visit during Spring or Fall Pilgrimage there are eight homes open for tours year round and several homes have been converted to bed and breakfast inns. One not-to-be missed icon of American architecture is Longwood Plantation. The largest octagonal home in the US, the 30,000 square foot "Nutt's Folly" was designed by Samuel Sloan. Built between 1860-61, construction was halted due to the Civil War and only th 10,000 square foot basement was ever finished. The home remained in the Nutt Family until 1969 and still retains most of its original furnishings.
This city is all about historic structures. One interesting place to visit north of downtown area is the Natchez City Cemetery, established in 1822. You can stroll or drive among the beautifully manicured grounds of the cemetery using a brochure/map provided in a box just outside the main office or attend one of the regularly scheduled tours. (FYI-Make sure to follow the signs that lead you to the cemetery from the downtown area. The route takes you through a neighborhood of late nineteenth century high style Victorian architecture.)

As we begrudgingly left Natchez, we veered slightly off our US 61 route to drive the twenty southernmost miles of another historic route-The Natchez Trace Parkway. This is another roadway worthy of a trip unto itself as it runs diagonally to its northern terminus in Nashville , Tennessee. This day our detour is for a short visit to Emerald Mound located at mile marker (mm) 10. Truly a historic structure, this 35 foot tall earthern structure was occupied between 1250 and 1600 A.D. and is considered to be the 2nd largest ceremonial structure of the moundbuilders in the United States.

Before returning to US 61, we left the Natchez Trace Parkway at mm 20 (Hwy 552) to visit the haunting Windsor Ruins (pictured above) 10 miles southwest of Port Gibson. Today all that remains of this once glorious plantation are most of the 45 foot tall Corinthian topped capitals. Leaving the grounds we turned left, opposite of the way we came, and rejoined US 61 in the town of Port Gibson.
Here in Port Gibson US 61 is fittingly denoted as Church Street lined with several unique and interesting religious structures, including an onion domed topped synagogue. Just before leaving town we spyed a golden hand topped steeple, symbolically pointing upward to reassure patrons of the direction their church attendance will bolster.
Onward to Vicksburg, loaded with historic landmarks and once the Vicksburg National Military Park. If you love history travel visit Vicksburg (and Natchez) soon. Riverboat casinos are beginning to line the Mississippi and I fear these towns may lose their historic context within the next decade. But for now there is still plenty of history to experience with one of several offered tours.

Upon leaving Vicksburg, US 61 quickly flattens into a vast agricultural landscape. Miles of fertile cropland only give rise to the occasional farm structure or crossroads. One such famous crossroads is located at the convergence of US 61 & 49 Highways. It was here in the town of Clarksdale where the late Robert Johnson was reputed to have "sold his soul to the devil" to obtain mastery for singing the blues. If you love blues music the Delta Blues Museum is a must. And if you want to experience one last bit of Mississippi culture before leaving the this town and wonderful state, spend your last night at the Shack Up Inn in one of the converted sharecroppers houses.