Sunday, September 16, 2007

Benini Sculpture Ranch - On the Road to Fredericksburg Texas (#44)


With the Austin City Limits Festival in full swing this weekend, it seemed a good weekend to travel west of the city on US 290 to one of my favorite Texas destinations...the quaint German town of Fredericksburg. This is a destination that I have not tired of in the dozen or so trips I have made in my last two years here in central Texas. New discoveries abound each time I travel west through this beautiful Hill Country

Today was truly a special discovery when our attention was caught by an gentleman photographing a metal Texas longhorn on the southwest corner of US 290 and CR 204. This was no ordinary longhorn, but a marvelous sculpture named Marathon created by artist Bettye Turner. A quick U-turn and short photo session with the bovine proved to be one of the smartest decisions we would make this day as this glorious creature marked the intersection that would take us to the real bonanza, the Benini Sculpture Ranch located 1.2 miles west of Johnson City and approximately five miles south of this intersection. Small

blue arrows beckoned us to meander the delightful road that led us to the 130 acre sculpture ranch with an astonishing array of works by a variety of talented artist. We stopped at the office to register as requested and were greeted by a lovely Texas friendly lady who gave us a short overview of the ranch and encouraged us to explore the grounds to further view their extensive holdings.

A few short hours later we were on our way again to Fredericksburg, marveling at our discovery and discussing the various pieces that decorated the rugged landscape. One such piece entitled The Bride at 3 a.m. by Jack Gron ignited a flurry of speculation such as
Was this before or after the wedding?
Maybe one day we will have an opportunity to talk with her creator during one of the ranch's Art Encounters at the Beninis held on select weekends throughout the year. There is no doubt this will not be the last time we visit this Hill Country Ranch with its delightful blend of hospitality, artistic talent, and scenic beauty.

We arrived in Fredericksburg just in time to take a quick stroll down main street and visit a few of the great shops and eateries nestled within the middle to late nineteenth century stone buildings that parallel both sides of this historic main street. How fortunate for us that a large population of adventuresome Germans would establish wonderful little towns like this with the its beautiful stone architecture.

We wrapped up the evening at my favorite venue on Main Street, the Fredericksburg Brewing Company. Usually the consummate dark beer snob, tonight I felt we should continue the adventure and try one of their samplers consisting of little four once glasses of all five current brews. In an unusual turn, tonight I went light with Hauptstrassa Hellest (Mainstreet Light), which turned out to be their 2005 Great American Beer Festival gold metal winner in the Munchner-Style Helles beer catagory. Life is SO GOOD, especially when you take the slow road to Fredericksburg...Cheers!





Sunday, September 9, 2007

Michigan (#1) -South Manitou Island

Marvelous Michigan
Water, Water, Everywhere!

Swimming, sailing, paddling a canoe, fishing, hiking to waterfalls, boating, kayaking, visiting lighthouses, cruising...If you love being around water as much as I do then Michigan is definitely the place to be.

One of my favorite destinations is South Manitou Island, part of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. This little gem of an island sits 14 miles offshore in Lake Michigan and is accessed via short scenic boat ride from the town of Leland. The quaint little dock area in Leland is nicknamed Fishtown and full of great eateries and gift shops. I highly recommend stopping for ice cream after your return from the island as a reward for experiencing this rustic island.

You can choose to spend just the day or carry camping gear and provisions and stay a night or two or three or more depending on your adventuresome spirit. Regardless, be brave and stay at least two nights so you can take in all this mighty little island has to offer, but don't bring anything with wheels, they won't let you use them!

The island has three camping areas: Bay, Weather Station and Popple. We have camped at Bay, a one mile walk and Weather Station, 2.7 miles. I prefer Bay because it is closer and has a sheltered bay. You are after all packing everything in...and back out again. We never felt adventuresome enough to hike 7.4 miles north to Popple and besides we were told that the poison ivy is taller than the average camper!

The hiking on the island is outstanding though I became suspisious of the stated map trail lengths immediately the first time we camped here. The map stated 10 miles to circle the island along the shore, but one trip out to the Perched Sand Dunes via the Giant Cedars had us convinced that someone had not measured correctly. the hike out to the Wreck of the Morazon is an absolute must, the trip in a kayak is even better.

One oddity of this NO WHEELS island are the motor tours in open backed trucks. This very inexpensive tour takes you past the abandoned buildings where folks once lived. This was a bustling island when ships needed oil and wood, and dairy was one of the main farming operations for a short time.

No trip to the island would be complete until you have climbed the tower of the 1858 South Manitou Lighthouse for a view of the island and Lake Michigan. Rising more than 100 feet the thrill view of the dangerous Manitou Passage. As you have seen, this lovely island warrants a several day visit.

Saturday, September 8, 2007

More Austin Texas (#44)

While I agree with all the recommendations given on Fine Living TV's recent Austin airing, there is more to this city than downtown. Guests of this great city should make sure to have enough time here to explore both the downtown area and then head west to explore the Lake Travis area. Having moved here almost two years ago from Ann Arbor, Michigan, I was pleasantly surprised to find that not only was Austin the "Live Music Capital of the World," but that this area also offers some incredible outdoor living!

If you love to picnic start your adventure by finding Central Market or Whole Foods before leaving downtown and bring lunch. Warning: Both "grocery stores" are adventures in and of themselves so watch your time or you may still be long after lunchtime. (My favorite: Central Market-South Lamar)

From the downtown area head north on MO-Pac Expy (#1). Exit on 35th and head west for a visit to Laguna Gloria located on Lake Austin. Laguna Gloria is a beautiful 1917 Italianate Villa that served as the first home of the Austin Museum of Art. Still owned by AMoA, artistically minded folks (3 yrs old and up) might consider checking out their website to sign up for a class offering held on the grounds at "The Art School." Admission to the grounds/trails is free, tours of the villa require a small fee ($2 last time we visited).

Leave Laguna Gloria, heading back east the same way you came. Make the first left (north) onto Mt. Bonnell Rd. You're now heading to Mt. Bonnell Park which offers a birds-eye view of the Austin city skyline, Lake Austin and the the beautiful Pennybacker Bridge. I recommend driving to the northernmost end of the park and walking uphill and downhill instead of taking the stairs; this way you can take in the view each and every minute. Picnic here or at Laguna Gloria. Mayfield Park, next to Laguna gloria, might also be a nice choice if you have the time.

Next is a close up visit with the Pennybacker Bridge, aka the 360 Bridge, which you saw looking upriver from Mt. Bonnell. Continue north on Mt. Bonnell Rd. to where it ends at 2222. Turn left (W) onto 2222 and drive a few miles to Capital of Texas Highway (360). Turn left (SW) staying in the right hand lane. Just before crossing the bridge turn into the small pullover parking area on the right. You will need to be a little creative scrammbling up the white cliffs for a spectacular view looking down on the bridge. CAUTION: There are no guard rails or fencing and I do not recommend that small children, pets, or those with a fear of heights attempt. Regardless, I am not in the best shape and have a slight (but healthy) fear of heights and found the effort to be worth it.

Head back to 2222 and head west-northwest again to 620. Turn left for approximately a mile or two to Comanche Trail and turn right. Finish your day off watching the sunset from The Oasis Restaurant located at 6550 Comanche Trail. Watching the sunset here, perched 450 ft above Lake Travis, is a tourist staple. Food here can often be mediocre, but you are paying for the awesome view where patrons rate that evenings sunset by applause as the sun sinks below the horizon.

Other lakeview recommendations include the Iguana Grill and Lakeway Inn which offers free concerts around their three-tiered pool overlooking Lake Travis on summer Sunday evenings.