North Dakota (#48) - A Land of Surprises

I was taking the long way back to Michigan from Texas. Instigated by one of my coworkers a month before my trip, I made the decision that come November 9, 2009 I would only be one state short of my goal to see all 50 plus DC...Alaska. Before this trip I was short three: North Dakota, Alaska and Hawaii. I have the tickets to Hawaii and will spend my 50th on the beach of the 50th. Sadly, I have the free ticket to Alaska...and the time...just not the money...maybe next year while I'm still 50!

Initially I was just going to head due north and skirt the eastern edge of the state, but a talk with another coworker from this area prompted me to change my mind. A little bit of research revealed two areas of particular interest: Theodore Roosevelt National Park and The Enchanted Highway. And so on an April evening after work I headed north from Austin to Wichita, Kansas where I would start working my way west until I reached the western edge of Nebraska where I turned due north to North Dakota.

US 85, the road heading north from the Black Hills in South Dakota to I-94 in North Dakota was long and grueling. There was little change in the terrain and little sign of life except for a few antelope now and again. I began to understand just why I had never visited this state. I wanted a McDonald's milkshake; though I rarely ever wanted one back home. I presumed my lust was a result of my inability to find a McDonald's drive thru.

Relieved to see I-94, I headed west a few short miles to discover the first of several units of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Painted Canyon was just off the highway and was a joint rest area. The scenery was incredibly beautiful, badlands with a burst of color. I entered the visitor center and was greeted by a helpful young woman who turned out to be from Dearborn, Michigan! We engaged in pleasant conversation and she recommended several hikes and viewpoints I should see at my next destination in Medora at the main South Unit part of the park.

I had the South Unit all to myself, a reoccurring theme of this wonderful trip. It was here that I was grateful that I had changed my original plans and ventured to North Dakota (#49). Upon entering the park I immediately encountered bison and a never ending sea of prairie dogs!! I stopped and hiked the Coal Vein and Wind Canyon Overlook trails and drove to the top of Buck Hill where I was treated to a 360º view of this incredible park. I had noticed groups of wild horses grazing in the valley when about the half way point in the loop, I rounded a bend to find a little white-faced colt standing near its momma intently watching me. I stopped right in the middle of the road for a few minutes and watched them for several minutes...and that little colt never stopped watching me either.

It was time to head back east on I-94 to go explore The Enchanted Highway, the brainchild of an artist trying to entice visitors to slow down and enjoy the North Dakota countryside. Located just east of Dickinson at Exit MM72 and heading south a little over 30 miles to the town of Regent. The Enchanted Highway boasts seven larger than life outdoor statues towering from a mere twenty feet to over one hundred feet tall. In 2002 creator Gary Greff captured the Guinness World Book of Records prize for the largest scrap metal sculpture for his 110 foot "Geese in Flight" right off I-94. But don't just stop there, continue south and experience them all. Featured in the Smithsonian Magazine in June 2007 just after the seventh piece of art was finished, Greff continues his dream in Regent where you can stop to buy souvenirs and start up the whirlygig. Time to head east.